Scopa's airplane hangar-like space in Venice is dominated by a 50-foot bar, communal high-tops, booming acoustics, and a jovial crowd at happy hour. The resulting vibe can only be described as surprisingly pleasant chaos. Bartenders are yelling out NEGRONI orders, servers are dancing around tables to drop Italian cold-cut platters, and diners are leaning in to converse over piles of handmade noodles.About those noodles: Top Chef vet Antonia Lofaso cooks upscale Italian with no fuss, like RIGATONI with vodka sauce and more modern takes like CRESTE RIGATE with morels and English peas. She smears nutty ricotta on ciabatta crostini and then leaves it rightly un-messed-with except for some quality olive oil and fresh parsley. The DEEP-FRIED FLUFFERNUTTER for dessert reminds you that life—and perhaps cardiac health—shouldn't be taken too seriously.
